PERU

Kyle with friends Kurtis,Nick and Chris

Majority of us wish to make a pilgrimage to Machu Picchu and for many travelers to Peru, a visit to that lost Incan city is the whole purpose of their trip. However, Peru is offering much more – from archaeological sites of pre-Columbian cultures, colonial and ultra modern architecture, colourful folklore, rich gastronomy - to the trails that mark the way from dense jungle to glacial peaks.

Peru is, as complex as it is a true paradise for an active Traveller.
I have never been to Peru. To visit this magical country was The Biggest Dream, the top on the “possible-lottery-win-wish-list” of a man who had the most influence on my life. This is written in the memory of Djordje (George) Djordjevic.

 Location 

Peru is the third largest country in South America (after Brazil and Argentina).

Situated on the western side of South America continent and facing South Pacific Ocean, Peru is bordered by Ecuador, Colombia, Brazil, Bolivia and Chile.

What to see 

Besides Machu Picchu that top the list there are many other attractions in Peru equally worth seeing: Lake Titicaca, Andean Agricultural Terraces, Nazca Lines, Ballestas Islands, often called Peruvian Galapagos, Condors in Colca Canyons, unique Liamas, Mancora – surfer hangout with gorgeous beaches, amazing mountain range Andes and the Amazon rain forest that covers more than 60% of Peruvian territory and is one of the most popular destinations for tours and cruises.

Lima left and Amazon rain forest right

 

  

Machu Picchu

Huayna Picchu

Machu Picchu is a 15th-century Inca site located 2,430 metres above sea level in the Cusco Region. Embedded within a dramatic landscape at the meeting point between the Peruvian Andes and the Amazon Basin, Machu Picchu is among the greatest artistic, architectural and land use achievements anywhere in the world and certainly the greatest legacy of the Inca civilization.

It was discovered by accident by explorer Hiram Bingham who was looking for a different city, known as Vilcabamba. (The real Vilcabamba is now believed to have been built in the jungle about 50 miles west of Machu Picchu.)

This architectural gem is constructed from stones cut so precisely, and wedged so closely together, that a credit card cannot be inserted between them.  

Intihuatana stones

These stones are named Intihuatana which is one of many ritual stones in South America. The Inca believed the stone held the sun in its place along its annual path in the sky; therefore researchers believe that site was built as an astronomic clock or calendar.

It’s still a mystery how these stones were cut and brought together at that place in 15^th century when it is known that they didn’t have any modern machinery, nor even wheels to transport. Or, did they??

What is obvious from the high quality of the stonework and the abundance of ornamental work is that Machu Picchu must once have been an important ceremonial center or a royal retreat abandoned at the time of the Spanish invasion.

Lake Titicaca 
 

Full of myths, legends and wailed by mystery – Lake Titicaca sits on the border of Bolivia and Peru and it is considered a sacred site. With its serene beauty and peacefulness, Lake Titicaca is also a major tourist destination.
There are many islands on Lake Titicaca and some of them are populated by tribes that have been able to preserve their culture and languages though centuries. 

  

Taquile is a hilly island and known for its handicraft tradition which is regarded as among the highest quality handicrafts not only in Peru but in the world. "Taquile and Its Textile Art" were honoured by being proclaimed "Masterpieces of the Oral and Intangible Heritage of Humanity" by UNESCO. Knitting is exclusively performed by males, starting at age eight. The women exclusively make yarn and weave.

Weaver

There are also Uros people that live on 44 unique floating islands. The original purpose of these floating islands was defensive, so they could be moved if a threat arose. They have been created from totora reeds that grow in the shallows of the lake. The lives of the Uros people are interwoven with these reeds. Partially edible (tasting like hearts of palm), the reeds are also used to build homes, boats and crafts. These islands have become a major tourist attraction for Peru, drawing excursions from the lakeside city of Puno.

 

Uros people island

Nazca Lines

                                                                                    

Spider, left and Astronaut, right

Ancient astronomers? Ancient religion? Aliens from outer space? A megalomaniac artist? Water sources? These are just few of many theories that are trying to explain Nazca lines ever since they were discovered by Peruvian archaeologist Toribio Mejia Xesspe in 1927.

Colibri

They are located in the Peruvian Desert, about 200 miles south of Lima, in Nazca Valley. Across this valley, in an area measuring 57 km (37 miles) long and 1.6km (1 mile) wide, is an assortment of lines – some are geometric forms that include straight lines, triangles, spirals, circles and trapezoids, and some are animal, marine and plant figures that include a spider, hummingbird, monkey, whale, condor and pelican. They are enormous in size and older then geometric lines. Some archaeologists believe they were constructed around 200 BC, about 500 years before the geoglyphs or geometric lines.

Spiral lines, bottom

Many scientists including writers like Erich Von Däniken were interested to explain these drawings that range in size up to 300 m (1000 ft) and are about 2000 years old. Until today there no agreement how and why they were made there. Are they were created for the gods to look upon them from above, or to be some sort of astronomical calendar, or they were the pathways for important ceremonial processions?

Personally I am intrigued by few facts: why would people draw in hot desert enormous drawings that are not easy to be seen from land level; what would be the purpose to make them that size and not 50 times smaller; and how is it possible that in South America there are other lines, similar in size and shape knowing that 2000 years ago people didn’t travel from one place to another just to draw same forms and lines  (like famous Giant of Atacama in Chile that resembles The Astronaut from Nazca Valley?                                               

 Cuisine                                                    

Ceviche

From my Peruvian friends here in Toronto and travellers that have been in Peru, I came to know a bit more about their culinary art.

Peruvian cuisine is a reflection of amazing ecological, cultural and ethnic diversity and in today’s world considered among the best. It combines Pre-Inca and Inca way of cooking with food that Spanish, Basque, African, Asian, French, Italian and British immigrants brought with them. Every part of Peru - the coast, the Andean highlands and the jungle – has it own cuisine, own flavours and ingredients, so just to taste it all would take several trips to this country.  

The national dish, “the flagship dish” of coastal cuisine is ceviche. It is made of raw, bite-size pieces of white fish, marinated in lime juice mixed with chilis. Ceviche is served with raw onions, boiled sweet potatoes, toasted corn and salad. 

Nikkei

The combination of Japanese and Peruvian cuisine known as Nikkei has become the latest gastronomic sensation to hit Europe’s culinary capitals.

The particular roots of this fusion lie in the significance both traditions give to fresh fish, as Japanese sushi vs. ceviche which is at the centre of many Peruvian menus.

Papa Rellena

Papa Rellena (stuffed potato) is another popular dish: made of mashed potatoes stuffed with ground meat, eggs, olives and various spices and then deep fried.

Tacu-tacu is a mixture of beans and rice, fried, and topped with breaded and pan-fried steak and an onion salsa. It is served everywhere in Peru and very popular with travellers. 

Famous Empanadas (meat turnovers) are available almost everywhere and they are usually washed down with a cool Cusqueña beer. 

Pisco Sour

Beside tasty beer, the most popular drink are Pisco (Peruvian brandy) and Pisco Sour (cocktail) made of Peruvian pisco (brandy), lime, syrup and egg whites. Peruvian wines are getting more popular around the world and might one day beat astonishing Argentinean and Chilean wines.

So, if you are in Peru – and Lima in particular – be sure that you’ll find an array of exotic tastes to appeal everybody. It is a laidback, vibrant dining scene, with, oh, well - buzzing nightlife too.

 

 

 Art and Architecture

There are many amazing artist in Peru and one common thread that bond them all is use of rich, opulent color. Color can be seen everywhere: on textiles, ceramics, murals, paintings, buildings...

Market place

 

Inner Cosmos,Tapestry by Maximo Laura

Modern Peruvian Weavers are heirs to a long-running pre-Hispanic tradition that was developed across Peru. Their textiles represent an outstanding work and tradition. Natural dyes are still used and preferred materials include brown and white cotton, vicuna, alpaca and llama wool in combination with gold and silver thread. 

 

Bold and graphic 

Chulucanas pottery is now exported all over the world. Inspired by pre-Incan ceramics they are made in the Piura Region. Designs are varied, but are predominated by black and white. 

The SoHo of Lima is great place to walk around and see the galleries, open art exhibition and one of the most beautiful murals.

Mural by Stinkfish

If you are in art, Lima is offering FANTASTIC world class art. Growing art scene is financially fuelled by the real-estate boom. Beautiful renovated mansions from the mid and late 1900's host a variety of galleries and museums guarded by old trees. In addition there are many modern minimalist apartment buildings and houses that give a unique atmosphere. 

By Victor Crisostomo Gomez

 

Striking contrast between rich color of the poor quarter and 'plain' minimalist, modern house in Lima.

In Summary:

Peru is complex travel destination. With its vibrant culture, rich markets that explodes in colour, gourmet food, topped by the Inca Empire treasures, Peru is the country where traveller shouldn’t rush. Set out to do less than you think you should.

And – not much known fact – for me, somehow the most desirable, is that Peru has the best chocolate in the world!

” There were these beans, high in a valley in Andes, - cacao beans from wild trees, and recently, when their DNA was tested, they were found to be of a variety long thought to be extinct in their pure, non-hybrid form. Even more tantalizing at an even more remote location were an even more rare all-white variety. The best in the world. “ - Anthony Bourdain for CNN

Hand made Peruvian Chocolate from the Best Chocolate Beans

Thank you to all Travellers who fell in love with Peru and came back to me with amazing stories; many thanks to my Peruvian friends  here in Toronto and mostly, I am thankful to Djordje, who, I am sure, got to his beloved Machu Picchu first day he united with Angels.